Summoning Spring
Minestrone soup, veggie lasagna, turmeric and leek focaccia, and caramelized leek potatoes gratin
For the first time this year, it’s warm enough for me to write this while sitting outside. I’m drinking an iced matcha wearing something that I spent approximately 30 minutes styling to achieve the perfect undone-just-threw-this-on spring outfit. Everyone around me appears to have done the same. It’s exciting, but honestly….it could be warmer. It’s the type of day where it’s perfectly warm in the sun, but unbelievably cold in the shade. It’s windy in a way that would deem it unacceptable patio weather in the late summer or fall, but is somehow tolerable in early spring. The wind has literally blown my laptop shut more than once and still I persist, sipping my iced beverage, pretending not to wish that I’d ordered it hot instead.
I’ve come to realize that I’m someone who actually talks about the weather quite a bit. As far as topics of conversation go, I know that this one doesn’t rank particularly high. And, I get it, it’s dull. But, there’s just so much to discuss! Is it finally patio weather? Have you noticed the the first signs of spring? Is the farmers market finally starting to pop the fuck off?? Whenever I sit down to write this, an update on the weather is always what comes to mind. Then I delete it, reminding myself that the point of this Substack is sharing recipes, not updating you on the weather. But, I could resist no longer! At this time of year, I think we’re pretty much all just patiently awaiting solid, sunny spring weather, and all the dishes and activities that go along with it.
This might be particularly relevant for me, because as a chef, the weather and seasons impact product availability. At Scratch Made, we create our menus according to a list of available produce from the farm. We try not to stray too far from that list, which I love, but this time of year the options can get a little tired. There’s only so much you can do with potatoes and cabbage. With the days getting longer, I’m hoping that the produce list will too. Last week, we managed to keep the menu bright and vibrant with some delicious veggie dishes, despite the lackluster list. I made minestrone soup (a personal fav that I’ve been happy to eat for lunch all week), veggie lasagna, potatoes gratin topped with caramelized leeks, and turmeric and leek focaccia.
Minestrone Soup
I don’t mean to brag (yes, I do) but one of our customers emailed this week to tell us that this was the best minestrone soup she’d ever had. It’s the perfect lunch and accompaniment to this week’s turmeric and leek focaccia. The recipe is infinitely adaptable to what’s in season. As the weather heats up, you can add zucchini and green beans. However, cabbage, Swiss chard, and winter squash also make great additions during the colder months.
Serves 4-6
Ingredients:
3-4 Tbsp good olive oil
1 onions, small dice
2 carrots, small dice
1 bulb fennel, small dice
2-3 stalks celery, small dice
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 14-oz can whole peeled tomatoes (canned chopped tomatoes or fresh tomatoes work, I just prefer the texture of using whole peeled)
1 bunch kale (de-ribbed, washed, and roughly chopped)
1/4 cup red or white wine (optional)
4 cups veggie stock
5 thyme sprigs (tied together with twine or picked and finely chopped)
1 bay leaf
1 Parm rind
pinch red pepper flakes
1 cup dried cannellini or other white beans (or 1 15-oz can)
1/4 box ditalini pasta or other tiny pasta like elbow or small shells
Parmesan, finely grated for topping each bowl
Step 1:
If using dried beans, soak the beans overnight in a large pot, covered by a several inches of water.
Step 2:
The next day, add more water to the beans if necessary (they should be covered by a few inches). Add half an onion and/or a few garlic cloves if you have them but it’s not necessary. Do not add salt at this time. Bring to a boil and then simmer the beans for 2 hours or until they are completely tender. Set aside to cool.
Step 3:
Preheat a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the olive oil, onions, carrots, and fennel. Season with salt and sauté for about 10 minutes or until onions are translucent. Next, add the celery and season again with salt. Sauté for about 5 minutes. Add thyme and a pinch of red pepper flakes.
Step 4:
Open the canned tomatoes and pour into a bowl. Use your hand to squeeze the tomatoes, breaking them up into chunks. Add them to the pot, season, and sauté, stirring constantly, for 5-10 minutes to cook out some of the raw tomato flavor.
Step 5:
Deglaze with wine and bring to a simmer, scraping up anything stuck to the bottom of the pan. Add the veggie stock and season with salt and pepper. Add the parm rind and bring to a low simmer. Allow to simmer for about 10 minutes before adding the kale and beans (strained). Check for seasoning and continue to simmer on low while you prepare the pasta.
Step 6:
Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta according to package instructions, strain, and rinse with cold water. Add to the soup and check again for seasoning.
Step 7:
Serve, topped with lots of Parmesan, a drizzle of olive oil, and cracked black pepper.
